探秘土耳其卡帕多西亚童话般的烟囱

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Peek into the fairytale chimneys of Cappadocia

In this rock-cut Turkish dreamland, surreal views pile on top of quirky historical details until you almost believe the local guides who tell you that Star Wars was filmed among these caves churches. But Cappadocia, with its curvy valleys of smooth rock and underground cities, is way more impressive than a Hollywood film. It all began around 12 million years ago with a series of megalithic volcanic eruptions, which produced the ash that hardened into soft tuff rock. Several millennia of erosion formed the sinuous valleys dotted with "fairy chimneys" rock formations, resembling mushrooms, phalluses, camels, Napoleon's hat, the Virgin Mary and anything you can imagine.

这个在岩石上开凿的土耳其梦境中，当地导游告诉你，《星球大战》就是在这些洞穴教堂中拍摄的，你几乎相信这些离奇的景色后面有更加离奇的历史故事。但是卡帕多西亚，有着光滑的岩石和地下城市的曲曲折折的山谷，比一部好莱坞电影更令人印象深刻。这一切都始于大约1200万年前一系列的巨石火山爆发，产生的火山灰硬化成松软的凝灰岩。几千年的侵蚀形成了曲折的山谷，点缀着“童话般的烟囱”的岩层，类似蘑菇、阳具、骆驼、拿破仑的帽子、圣母玛利亚和你能想象到的任何东西。

Air-Balloon flight over the rock formations in Cappadocia (Image Credit: travelandleisure.com)

Adding a human touch, Byzantine Christians turned these remote valleys of central Turkey into monasteries. The finest is preserved by the Goreme Open-Air Museum, where the colourful religious frescoes in the fairy chimney chapels look as good as new. You can tour the upper levels of the underground cities carved by the troglodyte monks, who went to ground there when marauding Islamic horsemen passed through.

拜占庭的基督徒把土耳其中部的这些偏远山谷变成了修道院，增添了人情味。最精美的保存在格莱梅露天博物馆，在那里，童话烟囱小教堂里色彩斑斓的宗教壁画看起来就像新的一样。你可以参观穴居人僧侣们开凿地下城市的上层，当打劫的伊斯兰骑兵经过时，他们就躲在那里。

Uchisar Castle - a rock-cut castle (Image Credit: .peraair.com)

Cappadocia was for centuries as a farming region, where the holes peppering the fairy chimneys and cliffs were pigeons for use as fertilizer. These days, boutique hotels offer rock-cut hammams and cave suites. Days here are filled with singular experiences, startling with a dawn hot-air balloon flight over the wavy valleys and knobbly formations, such as Uchisar Castle. Explore the valleys on foot or horseback, and ride a scooters to the old Ottoman Greek village of Mustafapasa. Come sunset, position yourself on a viewpoint or hotel terrace to see how Rose Valley got its name. ( 英语原文来自： Lonely Planet )

几个世纪以来，卡帕多西亚一直是一个农业区，在那里，点缀在精灵烟囱和悬崖上的洞是用作肥料的鸽子。如今，精品酒店提供岩石开凿的浴室和洞穴套房。这里的日子充满了独特的体验，黎明时分热气球飞过波浪起伏的山谷和凹凸不平的地貌，比如乌奇希萨尔城堡(Uchisar Castle)。徒步或骑马探索山谷，骑小型摩托车到古老的奥斯曼帝国时期穆斯塔法帕夏（Mustafapasa）希腊村庄。日落时分，站在观景台或酒店露台上，看看玫瑰谷是如何得名的。