Meet Silvia Fendi, the woman who's stepped into Karl Lagerfeld's shoes
备注：silvia Venturini fendi 目前是著名奢侈品牌FENDI现任掌门人 -- 西尔维娅•文图里尼•芬迪 。
1965年，卡尔·拉格斐开始在FENDI品牌担任设计一直到去世。同时FENDI著名的双F标志也是出自卡尔之手。卡尔富有戏剧性的设计理念使芬迪 (FENDI) 品牌服装获得全球时装界的瞩目及好评，将FENDI推到了高级时装的一线地位（百度）。
Updated 6th September 2019更新日期2019年9月6日
Written by Fiona Sinclair Scott, CNNRome 作者：CNN罗马fiona Sinclair scott，
Contributors Ana Rosado, CNN 改编：CNN罗马Ana Rosado
When the news of Karl Lagerfeld's death broke earlier this year, powerful reverberations were felt far beyond the fashion industry's inner circle.
He was one of the most recognizable people working in fashion -- his own image just as famous as his designs.
当卡尔·拉格斐(karl lagerfeld) 去世的消息于今年早些时候传出时，人们感受到的强烈反响远远超出了时尚界的核心圈子。他是时尚界最知名的人物之一——他自己的形象和他的设计一样有名。
His shows for Chanel were the main fixture of Paris Fashion Week each season and -- thanks to a combination of seemingly incessant creativity, business acumen and his vociferous personality -- his influence was vast. Lagerfeld was widely credited with turning Chanel into a global empire with sales of over $11 billion in 2018.
他为香奈儿(chanel)举办的时装秀是巴黎时装周(paris Fashion week)每一季的主要活动，他的影响力非常大，这要归功于他看似永不间断的创造力、敏锐的商业头脑和他的喧嚣个性。人们普遍认为，拉格菲尔德把香奈儿打造成了一个在2018年销售额超过110亿美元的全球帝国。
But beyond Chanel and his own namesake label, there was another brand deeply impacted by his passing -- the house of Fendi, one of Italy's most powerful and storied luxury fashion houses.
但除了香奈儿(chanel)和他自己的同名品牌，还有另一个品牌深受他去世的影响——芬迪之家(house of fendi)，它是意大利最具影响力、最具传奇色彩的豪华时尚品牌之一。
Karl Lagerfeld in a Fendi fittings session. 卡尔·拉格菲尔德在芬迪的试装会议上。
The family-run Roman fashion house hired Lagerfeld when he was still a relatively unknown designer, and he worked for the brand for over 54 years until his death from pancreatic cancer in February at the age of 85.
"The bond between Karl Lagerfeld and Fendi is fashion's longest love story, one that will continue to touch our lives for years to come," read a statement from the house in the days after his passing.
Next to one famous man stood two important women
Replacing a long-time creative director comes with inherent risk, but Chanel sought to create a seamless transition by promoting Virginie Viard, Lagerfeld's closest collaborator at the brand for nearly 30 years.
Fendi looked within the family for Lagerfeld's successor and promoted Silvia Venturini Fendi -- the granddaughter of the company's founders -- from head of menswear, accessories and children to creative director for the entire brand.
Both appointments were made with little fanfare, seemingly out of respect for the late designer.
芬迪在家族内部寻找拉菲尔德的接班人，并将公司创始人的孙女西尔维娅• 文图里尼 •芬迪(silvia Venturini fendi)从男装、配饰和童装的主管被提升为整个品牌的创意总监。
Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Fendi acknowledge the audience at the end of the Fendi fashion show at the Trevi Fountain in Rome, in 2016. Credit: TIZIANA FABI/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
卡尔·拉格斐和西尔维娅·芬迪在2016年罗马特雷维喷泉芬迪时装表演结束时向观众致意。图片来源:TIZIANA FABI/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
Two women now stand where Lagerfeld once did, tasked with working through great personal loss to define their own style, separate from their mentor's, on a very public stage.
"I don't think I'm a clone of Karl Lagerfeld," Fendi told CNN Style from the group's Rome headquarters in July, hours before the first Fendi haute couture show since his death. "I will write my own story," she added.
The Fendi family 芬迪家族
Silvia Venturini Fendi is the daughter of Anna Fendi, one of the five famous Fendi sisters -- Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla and Alda -- who worked at the business their parents Adele and Edoardo Fendi founded, primarily as a fur and leather boutique, in Rome in 1925.
Silvia was born into the fashion empire in 1961, and her mother worked in the studio, fitting models with the label's latest designs, right up until the latter stages of her pregnancy. In 1965, the Fendi sisters hired Lagerfeld as creative director, setting in motion a partnership that would endure for decades.
The Fendi sisters -- Anna, Carla, Franca, Alda, Paola. 芬迪姐妹（左起）——安娜、卡拉、弗兰卡、阿尔达、保拉。
As a child, Silvia was never far away from the creative core of the business, and at the age of six she appeared in a Fendi ad wearing a beaver bomber jacket and matching hat.
While still in school, she became adamant that she was ready to leave education and join the Fendi workforce. After a number of pleas to her grandmother Adele, she was eventually given permission. On her first day, her grandmother instructed the new recruit to cover for one of the telephone operators who had called in sick. Far away from the design studio, reality hit home and Silvia ultimately decided to return and finish -- or "just about finish," as she put it -- school.
A young Silvia Fendi年轻的西尔维亚·芬迪
After studying in London and Italy, the young Fendi's first formal job with the fashion house came in the mid-1980s when she launched "Fendissime," the company's secondary label. In 1992, her mother and Lagerfeld asked her to officially join them in the main creative studio.
The younger Fendi's definitive design moment came in 1997, when she created the "baguette" bag, a small, oblong shoulder bag that was an instant hit -- so much so that the design was later credited for the loss of "H" in hit and the birth of the term, the "It" bag.
年轻的芬迪（Fendi）的终极设计时刻是在1997年，当时她创造了“长方形”手提包，这是一个小巧的长方形单肩包，立即受到热烈追捧-如此之多，以至于后来该设计被认为是在流行中损失了“ H”以及“ It”包这个术语的诞生。
Despite having the security of her family lineage, it was likely this career-defining moment that established her seat at the table for many years to come. Since the first baguette, the brand has gone on to make over 1,000 iterations of the bag.
Karl and Silvia卡尔和西尔维亚
Silvia Fendi met Karl Lagerfeld for the first time as a very young girl, while visiting the fashion studio with her mother. Over the years, Lagerfeld came to be her friend, mentor and, in later years, colleague.
By 2016, they'd developed a close professional bond, so when the two designers walked across the Trevi fountain, where they had staged an enormous couture show to mark the brand's 90th anniversary, they strode out together, shoulder-to-shoulder as contemporaries.
Their creative bond was clear and the respect seemingly mutual.
Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Fendi walking after Fendi's Autumn-Winter 2017 haute couture show.
"Karl Lagerfeld brought her the most massive fashion education she could have ever hoped for," said Tim Blanks, Business of Fashion's editor-at-large. And in turn, "she brought him her strength of character and her absolute resolve to never be anything other than herself," Blanks added.
"They had such a wonderful working relationship and I imagine she probably challenged him," he said. "I think that's a challenge for her now. Who's going to challenge her?"
Silvia the creative director 西尔维亚创意总监
Silvia Fendi likes to play with reality. She says she liked to subvert rules and surprise. Perhaps this is where her love of film comes from. There's a cinema at the Fendi headquarters where she spends a lot of time. "I like to see a woman, what they call a cinematic woman," Fendi said. "I like things that tell a story." She's so passionate about film that she also produces movies in her "spare time."
西尔维亚喜欢挑战现实。她说她喜欢颠覆规则和传统。也许这就是她对电影的热爱。芬迪总部有一家电影院， 她在那里度过了很多时间。 芬迪说：“我喜欢看一个女人，是他们称之为电影女人。” “我喜欢讲故事的东西。”她对电影充满热情， 因此还在“业余时间”制作电影。
Fendi has collaborated closely with Luca Guadagnino, the Oscar-winning director of "Call Me By Your Name" on a number of projects including the 2018 horror film "Suspiria," on which Silvia is credited as a producer.
The two met in 2005 during the inaugural party of a new Fendi flagship store in Rome. As Guadagnino remembers it, he "spent the entire evening speaking to her and our conversation never ended. It is still happening now."
Tilda Swinton as Madam Blanc in "Suspiria" Credit: Alessio Bolzoni/Amazon Studios
Rome has always played an important role in the Fendi story. Feeding off the clash culture of Rome itself, a city that offers a jagged, mis-matched, architectural landscape, rich in history at every turn, Silvia Fendi said: "You'll find the Egyptian obelisk close to a church from the Renaissance. Which I think is quite interesting," providing a perfect example of the contradictions of modern Rome.
In clothing design, the element of surprise might mean making one material look like another -- something the Fendi brand has become known for. "For instance, for this collection I printed marble and stones on soft surfaces, like mink, organza or silk," she explained. "So, I like something that looks hard, (but) when you touch it it's soft."
Lagerfeld's legacy 拉格斐遗产
Set against the backdrop of the Colosseum at the historic Temple of Venus, the first haute couture show without Lagerfeld was undoubtedly a respectful nod to the late designer. The collection consisted of 54 new couture looks -- one for each year he worked at the fashion house.
在历史悠久的维纳斯神庙(temple of venas)的竞技场(colosseum)的背景下，首场没有拉格菲尔德(lagerfeld)参加的高级时装秀，无疑是对这位已故设计师的一种尊重。这个系列包括54款新的高级定制时装——代表他他在这家时装公司工作54年每一年都有一款。
But Silvia Fendi wasn't afraid to point to her own touch. "I think in this show, it will show it's a woman's point of view," she said hours before the models took to the runway.
Italian fashion designer Silvia Fendi acknowledges applause following the presentation of Italian fashion house Fendi's Couture Fall/Winter 2019-2020 show on July 4, 2019 at the Palatine Hill in Rome. Credit: TIZIANA FABI/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
意大利时装设计师西尔维娅·芬迪在7月4日于罗马帕拉廷山举行的意大利时装品牌芬迪2019-2020秋冬时装秀颁奖典礼上向观众致意。图片来源:TIZIANA FABI/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
How carefully Fendi -- and in the same spirit, Chanel -- will continue to protect the legacy of Lagerfeld remains to be seen. If any more substantial pivots are coming, they are being kept under tight wraps for now.
Lagerfeld was famous for hating any overemphasis of the past, constantly looking forward and never back. His token phrase after each fashion show was, "and now the next." So those stepping up to forge a path without him can at least feel free to move on, in that regard.
For Silvia Fendi, this means a new beginning without forgetting what came before. "Of course, today we have to turn the page," she said. "But, and this is probably something very Roman, to write the future you have to be able to read the past."
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