认识接替卡尔·拉格斐的女人-西尔维娅•芬迪

 admin   2019-09-24 02:30   1,431 人阅读  0 条评论
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翻译编辑:清波门 /南外英语系群

Meet Silvia Fendi, the woman who's stepped into Karl Lagerfeld's shoes 

认识接替卡尔•拉格菲尔德的女人-西尔维娅•芬迪

备注:silvia Venturini fendi 目前是著名奢侈品牌FENDI现任掌门人 -- 西尔维娅•文图里尼•芬迪 。
1965年,卡尔·拉格斐开始在FENDI品牌担任设计一直到去世。同时FENDI著名的双F标志也是出自卡尔之手。卡尔富有戏剧性的设计理念使芬迪 (FENDI) 品牌服装获得全球时装界的瞩目及好评,将FENDI推到了高级时装的一线地位(百度)。

Updated 6th September 2019更新日期2019年9月6日

Written by Fiona Sinclair Scott, CNNRome   作者:CNN罗马fiona Sinclair scott,

Contributors Ana Rosado, CNN            改编:CNN罗马Ana Rosado

When the news of Karl Lagerfeld's death broke earlier this year, powerful reverberations were felt far beyond the fashion industry's inner circle.

He was one of the most recognizable people working in fashion -- his own image just as famous as his designs.

当卡尔·拉格斐(karl lagerfeld) 去世的消息于今年早些时候传出时,人们感受到的强烈反响远远超出了时尚界的核心圈子。他是时尚界最知名的人物之一——他自己的形象和他的设计一样有名。

His shows for Chanel were the main fixture of Paris Fashion Week each season and -- thanks to a combination of seemingly incessant creativity, business acumen and his vociferous personality -- his influence was vast. Lagerfeld was widely credited with turning Chanel into a global empire with sales of over $11 billion in 2018.

他为香奈儿(chanel)举办的时装秀是巴黎时装周(paris Fashion week)每一季的主要活动,他的影响力非常大,这要归功于他看似永不间断的创造力、敏锐的商业头脑和他的喧嚣个性。人们普遍认为,拉格菲尔德把香奈儿打造成了一个在2018年销售额超过110亿美元的全球帝国。

But beyond Chanel and his own namesake label, there was another brand deeply impacted by his passing -- the house of Fendi, one of Italy's most powerful and storied luxury fashion houses.

但除了香奈儿(chanel)和他自己的同名品牌,还有另一个品牌深受他去世的影响——芬迪之家(house of fendi),它是意大利最具影响力、最具传奇色彩的豪华时尚品牌之一。

Karl Lagerfeld in a Fendi fittings session.   卡尔·拉格菲尔德在芬迪的试装会议上。

The family-run Roman fashion house hired Lagerfeld when he was still a relatively unknown designer, and he worked for the brand for over 54 years until his death from pancreatic cancer in February at the age of 85.

"The bond between Karl Lagerfeld and Fendi is fashion's longest love story, one that will continue to touch our lives for years to come," read a statement from the house in the days after his passing.

拉格斐还是一个相对默默无闻的设计师的时候,芬迪家族经营的罗马时装公司就雇佣了他。他为这个品牌工作了54年,直到今年2月因胰腺癌去世,享年85岁。

“卡尔·拉格斐和芬迪之间的纽带是时尚界最长的爱情故事,它将在未来数年继续触动我们的生活,”卡尔·拉格菲尔德去世后的日子里,这家公司里的一份声明写道。

Next to one famous man stood two important women

在一个著名的男人旁边站着两个重要的女人

Replacing a long-time creative director comes with inherent risk, but Chanel sought to create a seamless transition by promoting Virginie Viard, Lagerfeld's closest collaborator at the brand for nearly 30 years.

更换一名长期担任创意总监的人存在固有风险,但香奈儿试图通过推广维吉尼亚•维亚德(virginie viard)来实现无缝过渡。维亚德是拉格菲尔德近30年来最密切的品牌合作伙伴。

Fendi looked within the family for Lagerfeld's successor and promoted Silvia Venturini Fendi -- the granddaughter of the company's founders -- from head of menswear, accessories and children to creative director for the entire brand.

Both appointments were made with little fanfare, seemingly out of respect for the late designer.

芬迪在家族内部寻找拉菲尔德的接班人,并将公司创始人的孙女西尔维娅• 文图里尼 •芬迪(silvia Venturini fendi)从男装、配饰和童装的主管被提升为整个品牌的创意总监。

这两项任命都没有大张旗鼓地进行,这似乎是出于对这位已故设计师的尊重。

Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Fendi acknowledge the audience at the end of the Fendi fashion show at the Trevi Fountain in Rome, in 2016. Credit: TIZIANA FABI/AFP/AFP/Getty Images

卡尔·拉格斐和西尔维娅·芬迪在2016年罗马特雷维喷泉芬迪时装表演结束时向观众致意。图片来源:TIZIANA FABI/AFP/AFP/Getty Images

Two women now stand where Lagerfeld once did, tasked with working through great personal loss to define their own style, separate from their mentor's, on a very public stage.

两个女人现在站在拉格菲尔德曾经站过的地方,她们的任务是克服巨大的个人损失,在一个非常公开的舞台上定义自己的风格,与她们的导师不同。

"I don't think I'm a clone of Karl Lagerfeld," Fendi told CNN Style from the group's Rome headquarters in July, hours before the first Fendi haute couture show since his death. "I will write my own story," she added.

“我不认为我是卡尔·拉格斐(karl lagerfeld)的翻版,”芬迪7月在该组织罗马总部接受CNN《风格》采访时说。“我会写我自己的故事,”她补充说。

The Fendi family  芬迪家族

Silvia Venturini Fendi is the daughter of Anna Fendi, one of the five famous Fendi sisters -- Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla and Alda -- who worked at the business their parents Adele and Edoardo Fendi founded, primarily as a fur and leather boutique, in Rome in 1925.

西尔维亚·文图里尼·芬迪是安娜·芬迪的女儿。安娜是著名芬迪五姐妹之一——保拉、安娜、弗兰卡、卡拉和阿尔达。她们曾在其父母的家族企业里工作。她们的母亲阿黛尔(adele)和父亲埃多尔多芬迪(edoardo fendi)于1925年在罗马创立了一家主要从事皮草和皮革的精品店。

Silvia was born into the fashion empire in 1961, and her mother worked in the studio, fitting models with the label's latest designs, right up until the latter stages of her pregnancy. In 1965, the Fendi sisters hired Lagerfeld as creative director, setting in motion a partnership that would endure for decades.

西尔维娅1961年出生在时尚帝国,她的母亲在工作室工作,为模特们做这个品牌最新的设计,直到她怀孕后期。1965年,芬迪姐妹聘请拉格菲尔德担任创意总监,启动了长达数十年的合作关系。

The Fendi sisters -- Anna, Carla, Franca, Alda, Paola. 芬迪姐妹(左起)——安娜、卡拉、弗兰卡、阿尔达、保拉。

As a child, Silvia was never far away from the creative core of the business, and at the age of six she appeared in a Fendi ad wearing a beaver bomber jacket and matching hat.

作为一个孩子,西尔维娅从未远离这个行业的创意核心,6岁的时候,她穿着海狸轰炸机夹克和匹配的帽子出现在芬迪的广告中。

While still in school, she became adamant that she was ready to leave education and join the Fendi workforce. After a number of pleas to her grandmother Adele, she was eventually given permission. On her first day, her grandmother instructed the new recruit to cover for one of the telephone operators who had called in sick. Far away from the design studio, reality hit home and Silvia ultimately decided to return and finish -- or "just about finish," as she put it -- school.

当她还在学校的时候,她就坚定地认为她已经准备好离开教育,加入芬迪的劳动力队伍。在向祖母阿黛尔多次恳求之后,她终于得到了许可。第一天,她的祖母指示“新兵”替一位请病假的接线员接班。在远离设计工作室的地方,现实击中了要害,西尔维娅最终决定回去学校完成学业——或者用她的话说“差不多完成了”。

A young Silvia Fendi年轻的西尔维亚·芬迪

After studying in London and Italy, the young Fendi's first formal job with the fashion house came in the mid-1980s when she launched "Fendissime," the company's secondary label. In 1992, her mother and Lagerfeld asked her to officially join them in the main creative studio.

在伦敦和意大利学习之后,年轻的芬迪在这家时尚公司的第一份正式工作是在20世纪80年代中期,当时她创立了该公司的第二个品牌芬迪西美。1992年,她的母亲和拉格菲尔德要求她正式加入他们的主要创意工作室。

The younger Fendi's definitive design moment came in 1997, when she created the "baguette" bag, a small, oblong shoulder bag that was an instant hit -- so much so that the design was later credited for the loss of "H" in hit and the birth of the term, the "It" bag.

年轻的芬迪(Fendi)的终极设计时刻是在1997年,当时她创造了“长方形”手提包,这是一个小巧的长方形单肩包,立即受到热烈追捧-如此之多,以至于后来该设计被认为是在流行中损失了“ H”以及“ It”包这个术语的诞生。

Despite having the security of her family lineage, it was likely this career-defining moment that established her seat at the table for many years to come. Since the first baguette, the brand has gone on to make over 1,000 iterations of the bag.

尽管她有着家族世系的安全感,但这可能是她职业生涯中决定性的时刻,让她在未来许多年里稳居一席之地。自从第一个“长棍面包”问世以来,这个品牌已经进行了1000次的迭代

Karl and Silvia卡尔和西尔维亚

Silvia Fendi met Karl Lagerfeld for the first time as a very young girl, while visiting the fashion studio with her mother. Over the years, Lagerfeld came to be her friend, mentor and, in later years, colleague.

西尔维亚·芬迪第一次见到卡尔·拉格斐是在她很小的时候,当时她和母亲一起参观了时尚工作室。多年来,拉格菲尔德成为她的朋友、导师,后来成为她的同事。

By 2016, they'd developed a close professional bond, so when the two designers walked across the Trevi fountain, where they had staged an enormous couture show to mark the brand's 90th anniversary, they strode out together, shoulder-to-shoulder as contemporaries.

到2016年,他们已经建立了紧密的职业纽带,因此当两位设计师走过特雷维喷泉时,他们就像同时代人一样,肩并肩地走了出来。他们在那里举办了一场大型时装秀来纪念该品牌成立90周年

Their creative bond was clear and the respect seemingly mutual.

他们的创意结合分工明确,相互尊重。

Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Fendi walking after Fendi's Autumn-Winter 2017 haute couture show.

卡尔·拉格斐和西尔维娅·芬迪在芬迪2017秋冬高级定制时装秀后散步。

"Karl Lagerfeld brought her the most massive fashion education she could have ever hoped for," said Tim Blanks, Business of Fashion's editor-at-large. And in turn, "she brought him her strength of character and her absolute resolve to never be anything other than herself," Blanks added.

《时尚》杂志的总编辑蒂姆·布兰克斯说:“卡尔·拉格斐给她带来了她所能期待的最大规模的时尚教育。”反过来,“她给他带来了她的性格力量和她绝对的决心,她永远不会做任何事,除了她自己,”布兰克斯补充道。

"They had such a wonderful working relationship and I imagine she probably challenged him," he said. "I think that's a challenge for her now. Who's going to challenge her?"

“他们的工作关系非常好,我想她可能会挑战他,”他说。“我认为这对她来说是一个挑战。谁来挑战她?”

Silvia the creative director 西尔维亚创意总监

 Silvia Fendi likes to play with reality. She says she liked to subvert rules and surprise. Perhaps this is where her love of film comes from. There's a cinema at the Fendi headquarters where she spends a lot of time. "I like to see a woman, what they call a cinematic woman," Fendi said. "I like things that tell a story." She's so passionate about film that she also produces movies in her "spare time."

西尔维亚喜欢挑战现实。她说她喜欢颠覆规则和传统。也许这就是她对电影的热爱。芬迪总部有一家电影院,
她在那里度过了很多时间。

芬迪说:“我喜欢看一个女人,是他们称之为电影女人。” “我喜欢讲故事的东西。”她对电影充满热情,
因此还在“业余时间”制作电影。

Fendi has collaborated closely with Luca Guadagnino, the Oscar-winning director of "Call Me By Your Name" on a number of projects including the 2018 horror film "Suspiria," on which Silvia is credited as a producer.

芬迪与奥斯卡获奖导演卢卡•瓜达尼诺(luca guadagnino)在多个项目上进行了密切合作,其中包括2018年的恐怖电影《猜疑》(suspiria),西尔维娅被认为是该片的制片人。

The two met in 2005 during the inaugural party of a new Fendi flagship store in Rome. As Guadagnino remembers it, he "spent the entire evening speaking to her and our conversation never ended. It is still happening now."

2005年,两人在罗马芬迪新旗舰店的开业派对上相识。正如瓜达尼诺回忆的那样,他“整个晚上都在和她说话,我们的谈话从未结束。”它现在仍在发生。

Tilda Swinton as Madam Blanc in "Suspiria" Credit: Alessio Bolzoni/Amazon Studios

蒂尔达·斯文顿在《疑心》中扮演白夫人:阿莱西奥·博尔佐尼/亚马逊工作室

Rome has always played an important role in the Fendi story. Feeding off the clash culture of Rome itself, a city that offers a jagged, mis-matched, architectural landscape, rich in history at every turn, Silvia Fendi said: "You'll find the Egyptian obelisk close to a church from the Renaissance. Which I think is quite interesting," providing a perfect example of the contradictions of modern Rome.

罗马在芬迪的故事中一直扮演着重要的角色。从罗马本身的冲突文化中汲取灵感,这座城市呈现出参差不齐、错位的建筑景观,每一个转弯处都有着丰富的历史,西尔维娅·芬迪(silvia fendi)说:“你会在文艺复兴时期的一座教堂附近找到埃及方尖塔。我认为这很有趣,“这是现代罗马矛盾的一个完美例子。

In clothing design, the element of surprise might mean making one material look like another -- something the Fendi brand has become known for. "For instance, for this collection I printed marble and stones on soft surfaces, like mink, organza or silk," she explained. "So, I like something that looks hard, (but) when you touch it it's soft."

在服装设计中,惊喜的元素可能意味着让一种材料看起来像另一种——芬迪品牌以这一点而闻名。她解释说:“比如,我把大理石和石头印在柔软的表面上,比如貂皮、透明纱或丝绸。”“所以,我喜欢看起来很硬的东西,但摸起来很软。”

Lagerfeld's legacy 拉格斐遗产

Set against the backdrop of the Colosseum at the historic Temple of Venus, the first haute couture show without Lagerfeld was undoubtedly a respectful nod to the late designer. The collection consisted of 54 new couture looks -- one for each year he worked at the fashion house.

在历史悠久的维纳斯神庙(temple of venas)的竞技场(colosseum)的背景下,首场没有拉格菲尔德(lagerfeld)参加的高级时装秀,无疑是对这位已故设计师的一种尊重。这个系列包括54款新的高级定制时装——代表他他在这家时装公司工作54年每一年都有一款。

But Silvia Fendi wasn't afraid to point to her own touch. "I think in this show, it will show it's a woman's point of view," she said hours before the models took to the runway.

但西尔维娅·芬迪并不害怕指出她自己的风格。“我认为,在这场秀中,它将展示女性的观点,”她在模特走上t台前几个小时说。

Italian fashion designer Silvia Fendi acknowledges applause following the presentation of Italian fashion house Fendi's Couture Fall/Winter 2019-2020 show on July 4, 2019 at the Palatine Hill in Rome. Credit: TIZIANA FABI/AFP/AFP/Getty Images

意大利时装设计师西尔维娅·芬迪在7月4日于罗马帕拉廷山举行的意大利时装品牌芬迪2019-2020秋冬时装秀颁奖典礼上向观众致意。图片来源:TIZIANA FABI/AFP/AFP/Getty Images

How carefully Fendi -- and in the same spirit, Chanel -- will continue to protect the legacy of Lagerfeld remains to be seen. If any more substantial pivots are coming, they are being kept under tight wraps for now.

芬迪和香奈儿本着同样的精神,将如何小心翼翼地继续保护卡尔·拉格斐的遗产,还有待观察。如果将来有更实质性的创新,它们目前将被严格保密。

Lagerfeld was famous for hating any overemphasis of the past, constantly looking forward and never back. His token phrase after each fashion show was, "and now the next." So those stepping up to forge a path without him can at least feel free to move on, in that regard.

卡尔·拉格斐因讨厌对过去的过分强调而闻名,他总是向前看,永不退缩。每次时装秀结束后,他的标志性短语都是:“现在是下一个。”因此,在这方面,那些在没有他的情况下走上道路的人至少可以随意前进。

For Silvia Fendi, this means a new beginning without forgetting what came before. "Of course, today we have to turn the page," she said. "But, and this is probably something very Roman, to write the future you have to be able to read the past."

对芬迪来说,这意味着一个新的开始,同时不会忘记过去走过的路。“当然,今天我们必须翻开新的一页,”她说。“但是,这可能是非常罗马的东西;如果要叙述未来,你必须能够读懂过去。

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