伦敦时装周:本季最受关注的时刻

 admin   2019-09-25 12:14   1,657 人阅读  0 条评论
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翻译编辑:清波门 /南外英语系群

London Fashion Week: The most talked about moments this season

伦敦时装周:本季最受关注的时刻

译者按语:每年,四大时装界,来定义来年的颜色、款式。全世界各地的进口商、批发商都会去,了解咨询、买回类似概念的样品,然后重新设计,做小的改动,涉及到全世界穿着的品味。

每个品牌都有年龄段,甚至阶层的定位。国外有钱人,不会穿错品牌的。老外强于设计,他们creative,我们是加工,目前主要赚辛苦钱。不过现在中国年轻的设计师慢慢在学国外的理念,有的设计看上去像回事了。

设计师建立在文化上的,它是一种语言,一种静默的表达语言。美国尽管有不少品牌,但一线品牌欧洲绝对领先。美国更多是个“暴发户”。美国人缺少欧洲人的“贵族气”,一种意大利式的以家族为传承的“匠心。
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由CNN伦敦的谢曼珊(Samantha Tse) 撰写 发布于2019年9月17日

London was once considered the city to skip during the month-long marathon of fashion weeks, but it's worked hard to lose its outsider status.

伦敦曾经被认为是在为期一个月的时装周马拉松比赛中可以跳过的城市,但它一直在努力以摆脱其局外人的身份。

The five-day event may still face stiff competition from the rest of the "big four" -- namely Milan, Paris and New York -- but this year it delivered a series of especially impressive collections that blended eccentricity, intelligence and -- perhaps inevitably -- politics.

为期五天的活动可能仍面临来自“四大”其余成员(即米兰,巴黎和纽约)的激烈竞争,但今年它交付了一系列特别令人印象深刻的时装系列,融合了古怪,智能和不可避免地被谈及的-政治。

This time last year, designers most likely thought it would be their last chance to showcase collections at London Fashion Week with Britain as part of the European Union. Yet, Brexit is still looming.

去年的这个时候,设计师很可能以为这是他们与作为欧盟的一部分的英国在伦敦时装周上展示系列时装的最后机会。然而,英国脱欧仍在逼近

This seems to have inspired a somewhat sober mood, with designers using the runway as a platform to voice bigger ideas around political tension, identity and the tremendous changes taking place in British -- and global -- culture.

Here are the key takeaways from London Fashion Week.

这似乎激发了一种冷静的情绪,设计师们利用t台作为平台,围绕着政治紧张、身份认同以及英国乃至全球文化正在发生的巨大变化,表达更大的想法。

以下是来自伦敦时装周的主要内容。

2019年9月13日,在BFC展览空间的伦敦时装周上,一名模特走在Matty Bovan的2020年春夏时装秀上。作品。图片来源:维克多·维吉尔(Victor Virgile)/伽玛-拉波(Gamma-Rapho)/盖蒂图片社

2019年9月14日,伦敦时装周的第二天,一名模特在为2020年春夏时装系列举办的时装秀上展示了莫莉·戈达德的一件作品。图片来源:Tolga Akmen /法新社/盖蒂图片社

2019年9月14日,伦敦时装周的第二天,一名模特在为2020年春夏时装系列举办的时装秀上展示了莫莉·戈达德的一件作品。图片来源:Tolga Akmen /法新社/盖蒂图片社

2019年9月15日,伦敦时装周第三天,设计师维多利亚·贝克汉姆在为2020春夏时装系列举办的时装秀上展示了一件作品。图片来源:Niklas Halle'n /法新社/盖蒂图片社

2019年9月15日在英国伦敦的英国外交和联邦办公室举行的伦敦时装周期间,模特们在维多利亚贝克汉姆(Victoria Beckham)时装秀上走秀。图片来源:蒂姆·惠特比/ BFC /盖蒂图片社

2019年9月14日在英国伦敦举行的伦敦时装周上,模特们在Halpern时装秀前的后台。图片来源:特里斯坦·费文斯/ BFC /盖蒂图片社

2019年9月14日,英国伦敦时装周期间,一位模特在Halpern的t台上为2020年春夏时装表演做准备。图片来源:维克多·维吉尔(Victor Virgile)/伽玛-拉波(Gamma-Rapho)/盖蒂图片社

2019年9月16日,伦敦时装周第四天,模特们在巴宝莉(burberry) 2020春夏时装系列的时装秀上展示自己的作品。 图片来源:Tolga Akmen /法新社/盖蒂图片

2020年巴宝莉春夏时装秀在伦敦特鲁巴多白城剧院举行的伦敦时装周上,模特们走上t台。图片来源:伊恩·韦斯特/ PA图片/盖蒂图片社

模特们于2019年9月16日在伦敦2020年春夏系列的时装秀上展示时尚品牌Roksanda的 作品。图片来源: Niklas Halle'n / AFP / Getty Images

内奥米·坎贝尔(Naomi Campbell)于2019年9月14日在英国伦敦的伦敦时装周上走秀。 图片来源:萨米尔·侯赛因/ WireImage /盖蒂图片社

2019年9月14日,英国伦敦时装周期间,一名模特在时装秀上亮相。图片来源:Mike Marsland / WireImage / Getty Images

2019年9月14日,英国伦敦时装周期间,一名模特在时装秀上亮相。图片来源:Mike Marsland / WireImage / Getty Images

2019年9月13日,伦敦时装周首日,模特们在时装发布会上展示设计师的作品。

图片来源:Niklas Halle'n /法新社/盖蒂图片社

2019年9月13日,一名模特在东方春夏时装2020系列的时装秀上展示了王玉涵(音)的作品。作品。图片来源:Niklas Halle'n /法新社/盖蒂图片社

在伦敦格雷斯酒店花园举办的2020年Erdem春夏时装周上,模特们走上t台。

伊莎贝尔(Isabel Infantes)/ PA Images / Getty Images

2019年9月16日,在英国伦敦格雷斯酒店花园举行的伦敦时装周上,一位模特在Erdem时装秀的最后一场走秀。图片来源:斯图尔特·威尔逊/ BFC /盖蒂图片社

2019年9月16日,时装设计师JW Anderson在伦敦为2020春夏时装系列举办的时装秀上展示了她的作品。Niklas Halle'n /法新社/盖蒂图片社

2019年9月16日,安娜·温图尔和比利·波特参加了在英国伦敦举行的“jw Anderson s/s 2020”时装周。图片来源:圣地亚哥·菲利普/盖蒂图片社

2019年9月15日,在伦敦时装周期间,一名模特在荷兰之家和自画像展上亮相。

图片来源:Joe Maher / BFC / Getty Images

2019年9月15日,在英国伦敦举行的英国时装周上,模特们在荷兰之家和自画像公开秀的最后一场时装秀上走上t台。图片来源:Joe Maher / BFC / Getty Images

2019年9月14日,在英国伦敦举办的伦敦时装周上,一位模特在Dilara Findikoglu的发布会上走秀。图片来源:尼克·英格兰/ BFC /盖蒂图片社

2019年9月14日,英国伦敦,2019年9月14日,在Ambika P3举办的伦敦时装周上,dilara Findikoglu展示前的一名模特在后台的照片。图片来源:尼克·英格兰/ BFC /盖蒂图片社

2019年9月14日,伦敦时装周期间,一名模特在马奎斯阿尔梅达2020年春夏时装发布会上在t台上亮相。作品。图片来源:维克多·维吉尔(Victor Virgile)/伽玛-拉波(Gamma-Rapho)/盖蒂图片社

2019年9月15日,在伦敦时装周期间,一位模特在Simone Rocha时装秀上走秀。

图片来源:Estrop / WireImage / Getty图片

2019年9月16日,时装设计师克里斯多夫·凯恩在伦敦时装周上为2020春夏时装系列举办的时装秀上展示了他的作品。作品。图片来源:Niklas Halle'n /法新社/盖蒂图片社

Fashion in the age of Brexit

Fashion can serve as both a form of escapism and a lens through which we examine change in society. The latter shone through this year in London where, hidden between beautiful clothes and runway shows, designers used fashion to subtly reveal their attitudes towards British and European identity.

英国脱欧时代的时尚

时尚既可以作为逃避现实主义的形式,又可以作为我们审视社会变化的镜头。后者今年在伦敦闪耀,隐藏在漂亮的衣服和时装秀之间,设计师利用时装巧妙地表达了他们对英国和欧洲身份的态度。

This was even true for designers not known for politics, such as Simone Rocha, who weaves everything from her new role as a mother to her Irish-Chinese heritage into her work.

对于那些不懂政治的设计师来说,这一点甚至是正确的,比如西蒙娜·罗查(simone rocha),她把自己作为母亲的新角色,以及她的爱尔兰华人血统,都融入到自己的作品中。

"I do keep my politics and my creativity separate but I'm very proud of being Irish and being European, so it's fitting to do something that I'm really proud of and connected to," Rocha told journalists after her show at Alexandra Palace in North London.

“我确实把我的政治和创造力分开,但作为一个爱尔兰人和一个欧洲人,我感到非常自豪,所以做一些我真正感到自豪并与之相关的事情是合适的,”罗查在伦敦北部的亚历山德拉宫(alexandra pal宫殿)演出结束后告诉记者。

With issues surrounding the Irish border at the heart of Brexit wrangling, Rocha shone a light on Wrenboys, groups of young boys who hunted wrens on St. Stephen's Day, December 26, in Irish folklore. They'd spend the day dancing, singing and knocking on doors asking for money.

围绕爱尔兰边境的问题是英国退欧争论的核心,罗查揭示了爱尔兰民间传说中的“扳手”(wrenboos)。“扳手”是一群在12月26日圣斯蒂芬节(st. stephen's Day of the St. stephen's Day of the Irish folklore)。他们整天跳舞、唱歌、挨家挨户要钱。

Rocha's homage took the form of sharply tailored trousers, crombies and peacoats in heavy brocades and raffia-plaited accessories, from broaches to bags. The old Irish style complemented the femininity of the more voluptuous silhouettes found in layered tulle dresses and embellished outerwear.

罗查对她的设计表达了敬意。她采取了剪裁精良的长裤、粗大的锦缎和拉法编结的饰品的形式,从胸针到包。古老的爱尔兰风格补充了女性的性感,在层层薄纱连衣裙和装饰外套中发现了更丰满的轮廓。

Elsewhere, Burberry designer Ricardo Tisci continues to take on the difficult task of driving a heritage British brand forward in the age of Brexit. At last season's London Fashion Week, he alluded to a fractured Britain, even sending a model down the runway sporting the country's flag. This time around, he delved deep into archives to take inspiration from the brand's Victorian roots.

在其他地方,巴宝莉(Burberry)设计师里卡多·蒂西(Ricardo Tisci)继续承担艰巨的任务,以在英国退欧时代推动英国传统品牌的发展。在上一季的伦敦时装周上,他暗示了一个破碎的英国,甚至在T台上摆出了悬挂该国国旗的模特。这次,他深入研究档案库,以从该品牌的维多利亚时代的根源中汲取灵感。

A look from the Burberry show. Credit: Tolga Akmen/AFP/Getty ImagesBurberry秀的外观。图片来源:Tolga Akmen /法新社/盖蒂图片社

The resulting collection -- Tisci's third for the brand since joining last year -- eradicated the once-ubiquitous Burberry check pattern. He replaced it with hand-sketched animal prints, streetwear staples embellished with crystal detailing and the sensual modern tailoring seen in sculpted sleeves, cinched blazers and corseted dresses that nodded to his Italian sensibilities. The label's iconic trench coat was reinterpreted with silk panels, taking out the rigidity and giving it a renewed sexiness.

由此产生的系列——这是自去年加入该品牌以来Tisci的第三个系列——彻底消除了曾经无处不在的巴宝莉格子图案。取而代之的是手绘的动物图案,装饰着水晶细节的主要街头服饰,以及雕塑袖子、紧身运动夹克和紧身连衣裙中的现代性感剪裁,这些都体现了他对意大利的敏感。该品牌标志性的风衣被重新诠释为丝绸镶板,去掉了它的刚性,重新赋予了新的性感。

Meanwhile, Richard Quinn, known for his sculptural silhouettes, celebrated Britishness with a fantastical collection that continued to push boundaries in textiles and design with aerodynamic creations produced in his London studio. He presented his designs in an old sports hall in East London, complete with a live orchestra and choir performing Handel's "Zadok the Priest" and "Memory" by Andrew Lloyd Webber.

与此同时,以雕塑感著称的理查德•奎因(richard quinn)在伦敦的工作室里创作了一系列令人难以置信的服装,不断突破纺织品和空气动力学设计的界限。他在伦敦东部的一个古老的体育馆里展示了自己的设计,现场的管弦乐队和合唱团表演了汉德尔(Handel)的《牧师扎督》和安德鲁·劳埃德·韦伯的《记忆》。

Female muses with political stances

Designers have a long tradition of choosing strong women as muses, but this season saw a number of notable nods to women -- past and present -- who embody feminist views.

具有政治立场的女性沉思

设计师们选择强势女性作为缪斯女神的传统由来已久,但在本季中,我们看到了很多对女性的认可——无论是过去还是现在——这些女性都体现了女权主义的观点。

Turkish fashion designer Bora Aksu paid tribute to Persian princess Taj Saltaneh, a strong advocate of women's rights in the early 20th century. He paraded a series of delicately feminine dresses in layered lace and tulle, which he toughened using block-heeled shoes and boots, tailored cocoon coats and trousers.

土耳其时装设计师波拉·阿克苏(Bora Aksu)向波斯公主泰姬·萨尔塔涅(Taj Saltaneh)致敬,后者是20世纪初期大力倡导妇女权利的人。
他用分层的蕾丝和薄纱展示了一系列精致的女性化连衣裙,并用高跟鞋和靴子,量身定做的茧大衣和长裤使它们变得更加坚韧。

Elsewhere, Michael Halpern of Halpern presented glamorous, floor-sweeping eveningwear inspired by singer and actress Barbra Streisand, a well-known supporter of the Democratic party whose activism dates back to the early 1960s.

在其他地方,哈珀恩(Halpern)的迈克尔·哈珀恩(Michael Halpern)展示了迷人的扫地晚装,灵感来自歌手和女演员芭芭拉·史翠珊(Barbra Streisand),后者是民主党的著名支持者,其激进主义可以追溯到1960年代初。

"What we're about is giving you the ability to escape a bit and being able to put a sparkly frock on at the end of the day is something that gives you a bit of break from watching the 24-hour news cycle. And this type of clothing is a colorful protest to make things a bit nicer and to be a bit nicer to each other," Halpern said.

“我们要做的就是让您有一点逃脱的能力,并能够在一天结束时穿上闪亮的连衣裙,这让您从观看24小时新闻循环中得到一点休息。这种衣服是一种丰富多彩的抗议,是为了让事情变得更美好,也为了让彼此变得更美好。”

Erdem Moralioglu took his narrative from Tina Modotti, a girl from an Italian village who rose to become a silent movie star, documentary photographer and political agent. Her exploits in Mexico served as the basis for a collection that featured tiered dresses in jacquard and border anglais, silk scarves reinterpreted as ponchos and flat wide-brimmed hats tied down with scarves.

埃德姆·莫拉里奥格鲁(Erdem Moralioglu)的故事来自蒂娜·莫多蒂(Tina Modotti),这是一个来自意大利乡村的女孩,她后来成为一名默片电影的明星、纪录片摄影师和政治代理人。她在墨西哥的成就为一系列作品奠定了基础,这些作品以提花和边框英式的分层连衣裙、被重新诠释为斗篷的丝巾和系着围巾的宽边平顶帽为特色

Italian photographer, actress and political activist Tina Modotti at an exhibition of her work in Mexico City in 1929. Credit: Galerie Bilderwelt/Hulton Archive/Getty Images

意大利摄影师,女演员和政治活动家蒂娜·莫迪蒂(Tina Modotti)在1929年在墨西哥城举办的她的作品展览上。图片来源:Galerie Bilderwelt / Hulton Archive / Getty Images

"I'm fascinated by all the facets of her, and one of her facets was her politics -- I was very seduced by her," the Erdem founder said backstage.

“我对她的方方面面都很着迷,其中一个方面就是她的政治——我被她深深吸引了,”这位Erdem创始人在后台说。

Diversity and inclusivity are still buzzwords

London Fashion Week has a reputation for supporting diversity, but this season inclusivity was pushed forward in new and worthwhile ways.

多样性和包容性仍然是热门词汇

伦敦时装周以支持多元化而闻名,但本季的包容性却以新的、有价值的方式得到了推进

Fashion duo Marques'Almeida invited friends, family and fans of the brand to walk the show rather than agency models. The move seemed to embody their specific brand of girl power, which is built on a foundation of strong-willed irreverence and a community of supporters akin to a tribe.

时尚二人组Marques的almeida邀请了该品牌的朋友、家人和粉丝,而不是代理模特。这一举动似乎体现了她们特有的“女孩力量”品牌。这种力量是建立在意志坚强、不敬和类似部落的支持者群体的基础上的。

"We started meeting all these M-A girls and boys and they became inspiring for our work," explained Marta Marques, referring to the brand's initials. "We wanted real girls to feel their best and empowered. We feel like our mission, among other things, is to make fashion more diverse and inclusive, and more loving and accepting."

“我们开始接触所有这些M-A女孩和男孩,他们成为我们工作的灵感来源,”Marta Marques解释说,她指的是该品牌的首字母缩写。“我们想让真正的女孩感受到她们最好的一面,并赋予她们力 量。”我们觉得我们的使命之一就是让时尚变得更加多样化和包容,更加爱和接受。

Laura Bailey, Aymeline Valade, Billy Porter, Helen Mirren, Karen Elson and Sinead Burke attend the Victoria Beckham show during London Fashion Week. Credit: Darren Gerrish/WireImage/WireImage

劳拉·贝利(Laura Bailey),艾美琳·瓦拉德(Aymeline Valade),比利·波特(Billy Porter),海伦·米伦(Helen Mirren),凯伦·艾尔森(Karen Elson)和西纳德·伯克(Sinead Burke)参加了伦敦时装周的维多利亚·贝克汉姆(Victoria Beckham)秀。图片来源:Darren Gerrish / WireImage / WireImage

Rocha also championed diversity this season by casting Irish actresses Olwen Fouéré, Valene Kane, Jessica Buckley and Tia Bannon, as well as model Karen Elson, who at 40 years old shared the runway with models more than half her age.

本季,罗查还为多元化做了宣传,邀请了爱尔兰女演员Olwen fouere、valene kane、jessica buckley、tia bannon,以及模特Karen elson。后者现年40岁,她年龄的一般时间都是在T台上度过的。

Inclusivity went beyond casting, though. This season, the British Fashion Council (BFC) launched a new format that opened up the catwalk to the public, somewhat eroding the exclusivity of fashion shows, which traditionally serve as trade events for the industry. Standard tickets for the experience, which included installations, panels and shows by House of Holland and Alexa Chung's eponymous label, cost £135 ($166).

然而,包容不仅仅是强制性的。本季,英国时装理事会(bfc)推出了一种新形式,向公众开放了t型台,这在一定程度上削弱了时装秀的排他性,传统上,时装秀是行业的贸易活动。这次体验的标准门票,包括装置、展板和荷兰之家(house of holland)和Alexa Chung同名品牌的展览,价格为135英镑(合166美元)。

The future is in the past

The past has always been a source of inspiration for designers. But this season it was also a source of comfort, as several labels gave clear nods to past decades.

未来就在过去

过去一直是设计师灵感的源泉。但这一季也是一种安慰,因为一些品牌对过去的几十年给与了明确的点头。

Roberta Einer's dreamy collection took inspiration from long summers spent lounging in seaside villas in the mid-century, post-war era. She interpreted this through the lens of her own childhood nostalgia by reimagining her favorite summer outfits -- fluid dresses in pastel shades punctuated with neon detailing, flowy silk pants and watercolor prints.

罗伯塔·艾纳(roberta einer)的梦幻系列灵感来源于上世纪中叶、战后时期在海边别墅度过的漫长夏天。她通过自己童年怀旧的镜头诠释了这一点,她重新想象了自己最喜欢的夏装——柔和色调的流线型连衣裙,点缀着霓虹灯的细节,飘逸的丝绸裤子和水彩画。

House of Holland merged 1970s disco and 1990s rave culture with summer lurex in neon colorways, pussybow neckties and tracksuits. "It's a real exploration of those two periods because I see real similarities between them and now," founder Henry Holland said of his collection. "It's a period in history where people just didn't know what to do with the state of the world and just (went) out and partied to forget their cares."

荷兰之家将20世纪70年代的迪斯科和90年代的狂欢文化与夏季lurex的霓虹灯色彩、蝴蝶结领带和运动服融合在一起。“这是对这两个时期的一次真正的探索,因为我看到了它们和现在之间的真正相似之处,”创始人亨利·霍兰德(henry holland)在谈到他的系列时说。“这是历史上的一个时期,人们不知道如何应对世界的现状,只是出去聚会,忘记了自己的烦恼。”

A model walks the runway at the House of Holland & Self-Portrait show. Credit: Joe Maher/BFC/Getty Images Europe/Getty Images for BFC

一位模特在荷兰之家自画像展上走秀。图片来源:Joe Maher / BFC / Getty Images欧洲/ BFC的Getty Images

Holland said he and his friends felt disenfranchised by the political chaos in the world. "Our minds are blown and we don't know what else to do but have an amazing night for a few hours," he said.

霍兰德说,他和他的朋友们感到被世界上的政治混乱剥夺了权利。他说:“我们的头脑被震撼了,我们不知道还能做些什么,但却能在几个小时内度过一个美妙的夜晚。”

Sustainability and the political

Away from the shows and runways, protesters seized the chance to spread their message about fashion's role in the climate crisis. Protest group Extinction Rebellion staged a "die in" outside the BFC Show space, featuring activists covered in fake blood.

可持续性和政治

在远离时装秀和t台的地方,抗议者抓住机会传播他们关于时尚在气候危机中的作用的信息。抗议团体“灭绝叛乱”在BFC展示区外上演了一场“死亡”,活动人士身上覆盖着假血。

They held signs featuring slogans like "Fashion = Ecocide" and "The ugly truth about fashion," yelling at guests waiting in line to enter the venue.

他们举着“时尚=生态灭绝”和“关于时尚的丑陋真相”等标语,对排队进入会场的客人大喊大叫。

Victoria Beckham Spring-Summer 2020 Credit: Victoria Beckham维多利亚贝克汉姆2020春夏作品 照片由维多利亚·贝克汉姆提供

One of their most visible efforts was protesting outside the Victoria Beckham show, where high-profile guests including editor Anna Wintour and actors Helen Mirren and Billy Porter were in attendance.

他们最明显的努力之一就是在维多利亚贝克汉姆秀外面抗议,包括编辑安娜·温图尔、演员海伦·米伦和比利·波特在内的高知名度嘉宾均出席了秀场。

The fashion industry is far from achieving sustainability, and its efforts to reduce their environmental impact have actually slowed down in the last year, according to a new report published by Global Fashion Agenda, Boston Consulting Group and Sustainable Apparel Coalition.

全球时尚议程(global fashion agency)、波士顿咨询集团(boston Consulting group)和可持续服装联盟(sustainable Apparel Coalition)发布的一份新报告显示,时装业远未实现可持续发展,其减少环境影响的努力在去年实际上有所放缓。

As a whole, fashion emits more greenhouse gases than the sum of all commercial flights and maritime shipping, according to a report by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation.

根据埃伦·麦克阿瑟基金会的一份报告,总的来说,时尚所排放的温室气体比所有商业航班和海运的总和还要多。

Among the positive signals is the fact that several high-profile brands are designing their shows to be carbon-neutral, a trend inaugurated by Gabriela Hearst in New York last week, followed up by Burberry in London this week and embraced by Gucci for its upcoming show in Milan -- showing that big labels are starting to acknowledge the fact that the sustainability factor is at least as important as the wow factor.

在积极的信号中,有几个知名品牌正在设计自己的表演,使其碳中和。上周,纽约的加布里埃拉·赫斯特(Gabriela Hearst)开创了这一趋势,本周在伦敦的巴宝莉(Burberry)随后又受到了古驰(Gucci)的拥护。在米兰举行的时装秀-表明大品牌已开始认识到可持续性因素至少与令人惊叹的因素同样重要的这个事实。

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