Langmusi Trip, My Trip to Langmusi

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“Langmusi” in Chinese literally “Langmu Temple”. But actually it is the name of the small town bordering Gansu in the north and Sichuan in the south. “Langmu” in Tibetan means “Fairy”. The legend has it that once a fairy was discoverd in a cave near the village.
With a population of over 3,000, the town is now mainly inhabited by Tibetans, Han and hui. The town of Langmusi is only composed of one main street with a streem known as “White Dragon River” passing by the street. The area of north of the streem belongs to Gansu Province while the south to Sichuan.
The rual town is nestled in a valley between the north and south hills along steep grassy meadows, evergreen forests and snow-capped peaks. Langmusi has two Tibetan Temples and one Muslim Mosque. They are:
Sertri Gompa  – The temple is located on northern hill ( on Gansu side ).
Kirti Gompa  – The temple is on the southern hill  (Sichuan side)
Hui Mosque – located close to the Sichuan side temple near the enterance gate to Kirti Temple.
It is easy to spend a few days here exploring the numerous red and white monastery buildings and hiking around the green mountains. The surounding mountains reminds people of the rural Austria or Bavaria and ideal for hiking and horsetrek.
We took the chartered coach and drove 230km directly from Xiahe, to Langmusi. We only had a few hours exploring the town of Langmusi. Becuase Langmusi is very close to the fringe of Rouergau Grasslands, we kindly requested our driver to pass by Langmusi itself and went to further to the grassland first. So we drove another 20km via Langmusi to the edge of Ruoergai Grassland.
Ruoergai Grassland is located in the north of Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture of Sichuan Province, and borders Maqu, Luqu of Gansu Province. It is on the east edge of Tibet-Qinghai Plateau with an altitude between 3000 and 3600 meters.
Ruoergai Grassland is said to be the fourth largest grasslands in China after Hulun Buir Grassland in Inner Mongolia, Yili Grassland in Xinjiang and Xilinguole Grassland in Inner Mongolia. Ruoergai Grassland belongs to the kind of alpine meadow, also one of the China’s three largest wetlands, covering 10436.58 square kilometers.
Ruoergai Grassland, a field of wildflowers

Ruoergai Grassland, a field of wildflowers

I’de been to some mesmerising grasslands elsewhere in China, like Narat Grassland, Gegentala Grassland and  Mulan Weichang Grassland. In comparison, Ruoergai Grassland is neither the greenest nor a fertile grassland, but what catches my eyes and makes my excited is its numerous wild flowers. I felt quite shamed to be unable to name most of the flowers, which I had to call them wildflowers of grassland.
Then we drove back to the Town of Langmusi for lunch.  Our lunch was arranged at the Chinese restaurant of Langmusi Binguan (Langmusi Hotel), the best hotel in the town (0941 – 6671086). The hotel is located in the middle section of the area between Gansu siide and Sichuan side.

Langmusi Binguan ( Langmusi Hotel )

After lunch, I went out of the courtyard of Langmusi Binguan, and saw three monks sitting by the gate leisurely. I approached them with a sudden idea of taking a photo with them, they were pleased to agree to my request, hence the only photo with my image during the day trip.
Posed with three monks by the gate to Langmusi Binguan

Posed with three monks by the gate to Langmusi Binguan

Just outside Langmusi Hotel, on my right side is the main street in the town teemed with restaurants, shops and crowds of tourists. On my left side is the bumpy road leading up to the Kirti Gompa  – the temple is on the southern hill  (Sichuan side). Opposite Langmusi Hotel is the ticket office selling the tickets for the entry to the temple on Sichuan side. Not far from the ticket office is the only muslim mosque in the town.
The ticket office at the crossroad, a little bit shabby. People inside the house would shout at the visitors and stop them for ticket buying since alomost nobody would recognize it was a ticket office!

The ticket office at the crossroad

We had to skip Sertri Gompa  – the temple is located on northern hill ( on Gansu side ) due to our limited time in Langmusi. We decided first to visit Kirti Temple, then have a look at the mosque, lastly have a walk aound the main street in the town.
By the side of the road, a row of prayer wheels housed for people to spin for peace and prosperity.
On the southern mountain, we saw a few people standing high on the hill with the backdrop of white clouds, green alpine meadows.

people standing high on the hill with the backdrop of white clouds, green alpine meadows.

Kirti Gompa, built 1413 and home to about 700 monks. There are 4 major temples in the monastery.  When we arriaved at the monastery, we found a group monks debating in front of the main hall. This scene reminded me of the debating at Sera Temple  in Lhasa, Debates are practised by the lamas in the monastery every day. In a battle of words, they further their efforts by using a variety of gestures including clapping their hands, pushing their partners for an answer and more gestures.
A group of monks debating in front of the main temple in the monastery.

A group of monks debating in front of the main temple in the monastery.

In a battle of words, they further their efforts by using a variety of gestures

In a battle of words, they further their efforts by using a variety of gestures

Three monks after bebating
Inside the hall, we also found a group of monks sitting on the ground and debating. It is not easy to be a monk!

a group of monks sitting on the ground and debating

Three monks after debating

There are more temples of varous sizes in the Kirti monastery.

More temples in the Kirti Gompa

One temple in Kirti Gompa

One temple in Kirti Gompa

Standing on the high place in the compouand of the Kirti Gompa, we had a clear view of the Sertri Gompa in the northern hill on Gansu side. It was a pity that this time we had no time visiting the Gansu side temple in Langmusi.
Sertri Gompa  – the temple is located on northern hill ( on Gansu side ).

Sertri Gompa – the temple is located on northern hill ( on Gansu side ).

From Kirti Gompa here on the southern hill, we overlooked the narrow town bound by the hills in the norrth and south.
Langmusi Town is bound by the mountains in the north and south.

Langmusi Town is bound by the mountains in the north and south.

The green hills are a perfect place for hiking treks and horse riding. All these activities would be my next trip.

The green hills are a perfect place for hiking treks and horse riding

Below the monastery was the living quarters of Tibetans with simple and shabby houses.

the living quarters of Tibetans

the living quarters of Tibetans 1

the living quarters of Tibetans

the living quarters of Tibetans 2

the living quarters of Tibetans 2

A  young  monk

A young monk

A monk and his car

A monk and his car

The White Dragon River coming from the souterth hill and passing through the Tibetan living area down to the street in the town.
The White Dragon River coming from the souterth hill

The White Dragon River coming from the souterth hill

I walked along the White Dragon River on the bumpy road back to the main street in the town.
At the ticket office, I turned right for a glimpse of the only mosque in the town. The mosque was built 1943 by the descendants of ethic groups of Hui, Dongxiang who came here on business.
The mosque was built 1943

The mosque was built 1943

The street of Langmusi Town was dusty.  The narrow street was riddled with stores, restaurants and inns.

The street of Langmusi Town was dusty

This was the famous Amdo Coffee on the main road in Langmusi.

Amdo Coffee

Leisha’s Reasturant ( 0941 – 6671179) is a wonderful place offering fresh apple pies, yak burgers and Yunnanese coffee.

Leisha’s Reasturant

How to get to Langmusi:
Lanzhou – Langmusi daily long-distance bus
Lanzhou – Hezhou – Langmusi Bus
Xiahe – Langmusi Daily bus

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7 Responses to “Langmusi Trip, My Trip to Langmusi”

  1. Dear! this is Langmusi Windhorse Trekking, if anyone in your trip want to ride horse in Langmusi, we have 1-3 day horse trekking line, and also can be arrange by hours.
    sonam

  2. Anjaly Thomas says:

    How do I get to Langmusi from Xian or Chengdu?

    I have been desperately googling and came up with nothing.
    Can you tell me how to get there?

    as I am not sure yet if I am traveling from Xian or Chengdu, it would be great if you would give me directions from both places.

    Warm regards

  3. Daniel says:

    Hello Anjaly Thomas,

    You may take a long-distance bus from Lanzhou on to Langmusi.

  4. kbguy says:

    Are there any hostels available over there?
    If I fly to Chengdu or Guilin, where do I go from there?

  5. Daniel says:

    Hello Kbguy,

    You may go from Chengdu to Langmusi (553 km ) or from Lanzhou to Langmusi (398 km ). Langmusi is a small township lying between Sichuan Province and Gansu Province. But there are no direct buses linking Langmusi either to Chengdu or Lanzhou.

    If you start from Chengdu, you need first to take the bus to Maoergai County (诺尔盖), then rent a vehicle to reach Langmusi; if you start from Lanzhou, you first take the bus from Lanzhou to Hezuo County (合作), then hire a vehicle to get to Langmusi.

    How to get to Langmusi is a bit tricky. You’d better off arranging your own transport or or hooking up with other travelers to split the cost.

    Have a good time in China!

  6. Daniel says:

    Hello Kbguy,

    Just follow-up to my previous reply. Yes, there are quite some accommodations for you to choose. No worry about that. Many western travelers like the place.

  7. Daniel says:

    Hello Kbguy,

    Just follow-up to my previous reply. Yes, there are quite some accommodations for you to choose. No worry about that. Many western travelers like the place.

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