Archive for the ‘Qikou Travel’ Category

How to Visit Yellow River Frescos

Monday, January 13th, 2014
facebooktwittergoogle_plusredditpinterestlinkedinmailby feather

If you are going to visit the ancient flagstone paved Qikou Town and the cave-house Lijiashan Village on your Shanxi tour, you may also consider having a 3-hour excursion driving along the Yellow River Highway north of Qikou Town and visit the Yellow River Frescos high on the eastern bank.

The Yellow River Froscos are not rock paintings and they are just the trails left by the rock erosion or the river currents on the river bank. The river currents have left deep scratched patterns high up on the cliff face of the eastern bank of the Yellow River.

The deep scratched patterns or the natural frescos on the eroded bank present us a huge roll of natual rock painting. These trails are dimensional and formed naturally. Just use your brain to activily think about the images ( natural rock paintings or frecos) – resembling to clouds, buddhas, houses, boats, rock falls, Chinese scripts and abstract paintings.

The site of the Yellow River Frescos is about 30km north of Qikou Town, one hour’s drive along the Yellow River Highway. No public transport from QiKou Town to the Yellow Rive Rock Painting. You have to negotiate with local tourism van for approx.RMB 150 for round trip. Once you arrive at the fresco site, you will pay RMB 300 for a small speed boat seating maxum 10 people for 40 minites cruising along the “fresco bank” of the Yellow River.

Let’s go! The newly asphalt highway is designed to develop the tourism industry along the Yellow River. It is asightseeing driveway – the massive Yellow River, the sandbanks, the beaches and water flows, constituing a pretty picture of the mighty Yellow River.

The newly asphalt highway is designed to develop the tourism industry

The newly asphalt highway is designed to develop the tourism industry

 

On the highway,  you will enjoy the intoxicating sand beaches on the Yellow River.

impressive sand beach.

impressive sand beach.

At the end of my 30km drive,  I see  below the bank is the simple whaf moored with three speed boats that charge RMB300 for one short loop tour of  the natural painting or frescos.

the bank is the simple whaf moored with three speed boats

the bank is the simple whaf moored with three speed boats

So jump into a speedboat and expore the mystery of the river bank natural paintings.

The river bank has numwerous carved patterns and trails1

The river bank has numwerous carved patterns and trails1

Just look at these eroaded rock frescos

The eroaded rock resembling a buddhist book

The eroaded rock resembling a buddhist book

A huge book from the heaven

A huge book from the heaven

A huge book from the heaven

It is the nest for the water flows

It is the nest for the water1

It is the nest for the water1

A multi-storey buildings

A multi-storey buildings

A multi-storey buildings

 

the huge teeth

the huge teeth

the huge teeth

 

A beautiful rock frecso

 

A beautiful rock frecso

A beautiful rock frecso

 

At the end of your fresco tour, your boatman will drive you to the soft sand beach or bank in the middle of the Yellow River

The soft sand beach in the middle of the Yellow river

The soft sand beach in the middle of the Yellow river

The soft sand beach in the middle of the Yellow river

 

Any questions, just drop a line.

 

Sunrise and Sunset for Qikou

Tuesday, January 7th, 2014
facebooktwittergoogle_plusredditpinterestlinkedinmailby feather

Qikou is an ancient port town on the west bank of Yellow River, approxi 240km southwest of Taiyuan and 190km west of Pingyao. Many tourists  on their Shanxi tour would visit Qikou Town on a side trip from Pingyao tour.  In addition  to visiting Qikou Town, a well-preserved ancient town in the style of Ming and Qing Dynasty (1368 – 1911),  its nearby prestine villages like Lijiashan Village is also one of your highlights on your trip to Qikou.  It is  a long-forgotten ancient settlement of cave dwellings, a big draw for foreign visitors.  For more information on Qikou and Lijiashan Village,  check Qikou Travel Guide  and Lijiashan Travel  Tips.

Qikou Town has  great spots to watch Sunrise and Sunset.  If you are a big fan of Sunrise or Sunset photography,  I’d like to introduce the best places in Qikou Town either to see the Sunrise or the Sunset.

Let’s first watch the Sunrise for Qikou.

Contact your hotel manager for hiring a local van ( approx.RMB 60) to send you to the top of Lijiashan Hill, south of Qikou Town.  On Lijiashan Hill,  you will have a perfect spot to view the rising sun  if you are lucky enough to have a sunny day.  Standing on a moud on the hill, in a distance, on your left side (west) is the Yellow River;  before you is the ancient port town – Qikou Town;  on your right side in a distance are the undulating hills waiting for the coming of the rising sun.

Mr. Chen,  my driver drives skifully along the narrow mountain road and soon I find I’m standing on a mound by the mountain road, waiting for the rising sun from the east.

standing on a mound by the mountain road, waiting for the rising sun.

standing on a mound by the mountain road, waiting for the rising sun.

On the west and in front of me in a distance is the Yellow River and Qikou Town. Between Lijiashan Hill where I’m standing and Qikou Town is the Qiushui River.

Yellow River, Qikou Town and Qiushui River

Yellow River, Qikou Town and Qiushui River

The east is getting reddish

The east is getting red

The east is getting red

The sunglow of the rising sun is elegantly reflected on the clouds.

The sunglow of the rising sun is elegantly reflected on the clouds

The sunglow of the rising sun is elegantly reflected on the clouds

The sun is appearing from behind the dark mountains in a distance.

The sun is appearing from behind the dark mountains in a distance.

The sun is appearing from behind the dark mountains in a distance.

Half the rising sun is in.

Half the rising sun is in.

Half the rising sun is in.

The total sun is over the mountains

The total sun is over the mountains

The total sun is over the mountains

 

The best place to watch the sunset in Qikou

Basically there are two places to see the sunset for Qikou Town-  One is on the Black Dragon Temple and the other is the moutain road high above and behind Qikou Town. I personally prefer the mountain road behind the town.  The setting sun glow is reflected on the Yellow River, accompanied by the cooking smoke coming from the houses in the town, a peaceful and happy place rarely seen in big cities.

The sun is setting over the undulating mountain  and  the narrow riverbed of the Yellow River

The sun is setting over the undulating mountain  and  the narrow riverbed of the Yellow River

The sun is setting over the undulating mountain and the narrow riverbed of the Yellow River

 

Any questions, just drop a line.

Lijiashan Travel Tips

Saturday, November 9th, 2013
facebooktwittergoogle_plusredditpinterestlinkedinmailby feather

Plan your trip to the ancient Qikou Town on your Shanxi tour? The big draw in Qikou Town is the nearby ancient village known as Lijiashan ( Li Family Mountain), a long-forgotten ancient settlement of cave dwellings. Lijiashan Village sits on the both sides of the valley in Lijiashan Hill, about 10km south of Qikou Town across Qiushui River, a tributary of the Yellow River.

Over 500 years ago, Qikou Town started to flourish as a port town owing to the waterway transportation of the Yellow River. At its heyday, Qikou Town was a place for men or merchants in particular doing trading business. Many wealthy merchants in the town, for various reasons, maybe, for safety or modesty, arranged their families secretly away in the mountains. Lijiashan was one of their choices. So husbands or men worked in Qikou Town and their wives and children lived in the hills away from the town such as Lijiashan.

Lijiashan is a village now. But in the ancient time, the villagers in Lijianshan were not farmers and they were rich merchants’s families living on the income from the port trading business in Qikou Town. If you understand this, you won’t be surprised if you see the faded, but still seemingly magnificent cave houses. These are not earth caves dwellings, they are brick, stone and tile cave dwellings built deep into the hillsides at theirs backs, but have front courtyards of bricks and tiles, just like a Chinese traditional courtyard.

The layout of the cave houses in Lijashan is like a phoenix with the cave dwellings perched on the both sides of wings. Between the two wings is the body or the valley of Lijiashan Mountain. The cave houses on the both sides of the valley hug the hillsides and scale nine storeys. All the cave dwellings ( including the dwellings on both sides of the valley are linked by the stone paths and stairways that wind up or down the hills. Some of the stone parths and stairs date back to the Ming times.

Lijiashan was once home to over 600 families, most surnamed Li, but today’s population is about 40, and most of them are elderly. So where are the other villagers in Lijiashan? They have moved down to a new Lijiashan village with better living conditions and facilites at the foot of Lijiashan Mountain. Some inhabitants on the old Lijiashan Village are engaged in tourism, offering cave dwellings acommodations and food services to visitors and arts students who come and even stay here for drawing and painting. Beside tourists, you will see many arts students use the caves for their classrooms and drawing the picturesque cave houses and the mountain.

At the time of my writing, Lijiashan Village is very peaceful, and free of charge. You can enter most of the cave houses. Some cave dwellings are just empty with nobody living there. Some are still inhabited by local villagers who are very friendly to visitors. The local people and the government as well are aware of the cultural value behind the hundreds of cave dwellings and going to do something to promote the local tourism, an effective way to improve the local economy. Sincerely hope for a long-term serenity and peace for Lijiashan.

Lijiashan Travel Guide
You may take the morning long distance bus from Taiyuan West Coach Station (太原汽车客运西站)to Qikou Town, or via Lishi.  Taiyuan West Coach Station is located on Yingze Avenue 10km to the east of Tianyuan Railway Station. Take Bus No.01, 06 from Taiyuan Railway Station, you will get to Taiyuan West Coach Station. Add: Yingze W St, Wanbailin, Taiyuan Tel:  0351 6552571

The buses from Taiyuan West Coach Station will go to Qikou, Lishi.
Qikou: 4 hours, one daily 10:30am
Lishi: 2 hours, hourly from 7:00am to 7:30pm
Lishi – Qikou: one hour, frequent  7:00am to 7:30pm

Get around in Qikou and Lijiashan
You may hire a local mini-van at a cost of RMB 60 to bring you to the top of Lijiashan from Qikou Town if you don’t want to take a 10km walk up to Lijiashan. If you prefer to walk to Lijiashan, you just cross the bridge over Qiushui River by the side of Qikou Bus Station. Then follow the river for about half hour. Then you will see a rock carved with the Chinese name of Lijiashan (李家山). This is the new Lijiashan Village where you turn up on to the mountain road and you will reach the old village for about 30-40 minutes. You may first visit the west side of the cave houses, then move on to the east. Standing on the top of the one hillside will allow you to have a fantastic view of the other side.

If you are mesmerized by the natural beauty and the ancient Chinese venacular buildings in Lijiashan, you may stay overnight here in a cave house for RMB 50 per bed. Here you will realize your dream of experiencing Shanxi’s cave houses, but you cannot expect the comforts – no TV, no shower, no heating, no air-conditioning and just basic.

Well, follow me to have a glimpse of Lijiashan.

When you come across the big rock carved with the Chinese name of Lijiashan Villlage (李家山), you should stop and turn left and go up on to the mountain for the ancient Lijiashan Village.

The Rock carved with the Chinese name of Lijiashan

The Rock carved with the Chinese name of Lijiashan

The narrow zigzag mountain leading up to Lijiashan

the narrow zigzag mountain road up to Lijiashan.

the narrow zigzag mountain road up to Lijiashan.

Approaching Lijiashan, look up and you will see the cave dwellings which are built on the both sides of the valley at Lijiashan Mountain:West Wing and East Wing.

The cave dwellings are built on the both sides of the valley at Lijiashan Mountain

The cave dwellings are built on the both sides of the valley at Lijiashan Mountain

Looking at the east side cave houses from the west side

Now we are on the top of the west wing. Standing on the west side, we clearly view the whole picture of the cave houses hugging the hillsides on the east side.

the cave houses hugging the hillsides on the east side.

the cave houses hugging the hillsides on the east side.

Have a close look at a wealthy two-storey cave dwelling on the east side of the valley at Lijiashan.

Have a close look at a wealthy two-storey cave dwelling on the east side

Have a close look at a wealthy two-storey cave dwelling on the east side

Multi-level layers of cave houses with courtyards.

Multi-level layers of cave houses with courtyards

Multi-level layers of cave houses with courtyards

Some cave houses are abandoned

Some cave houses are abandoned

Some cave houses are abandoned

Visiting the cave houses on the west side

This host’s courtyard is named Yellow River Family, a two-storey courtyard.

This host's courtyard is named Yellow River Family

This host’s courtyard is named Yellow River Family

Peep into the stone kang beds in one cave room in Yellow River Family

  Peep into the interior of a cave house

Peep into the interior of a cave house

We are inside the courtyard of the cave house

We are inside the courtyard of the cave  house

We are inside the courtyard of the cave house

The cave houses are made of wood, stone and brick. Old wooden frame door and rings.

Old wooden frame door and rings

Old wooden frame door and rings

The entrance to Li Yinlan’s cave dwelling

the old wooden door is open for you to visit

the old wooden door is open for you to visit

Li Yinlan’s courtyard is ornate and exquisite.

Li Yinlan's courtyard is ornate and delicate

Li Yinlan’s courtyard is ornate and delicate

exquisite brackets, beautiful wood carvings and decorated tiles

exquisite brackets, beautiful wood carvings and decorated tiles

exquisite brackets, beautiful wood carvings and decorated tiles

the old bolts

the old bolts

the old bolts

Walking from the west side to the east side
We walk down the valley and walk up to the east side. In the valley, we look back at the cave houses scaling the hillsides on the west side of the valley.

Clamber up the old stone stairs up to the east side of the valley.

Clamber up the old stone stairs up to the east side of the valley.

Clamber up the old stone stairs up to the east side of the valley.

View the cave houses on the west side from the east side

View the cave houses on the west side from the east side

View the cave houses on the west side from the east side

View the cave houses on the west side from the east side

Li Yinlan’s cave house atop the hill viewed from the east

Li Yinlan's cave house viewed from the east

Li Yinlan’s cave house viewed from the east

the cave dwellings on the west side of the valley

the cave dwellings on the west side of the valley

the cave dwellings on the west side of the valley

The cave houses on the east side of the valley

Ornate entrance to the most wealthy family on the east, but the door is closed.

Ornate entrance to the most wealthy family on the east

Ornate entrance to the most wealthy family on the east

A local elderly’s cave house

A local elderly's cave house

A local elderly’s cave house

The first local villager we have seen

The first local villager we have seen

The first local villager we have seen

A group of arts students stay here for drawing classes

A group of arts students stay here for drawing classes

A group of arts students stay here for drawing classes

A perfect place for drawing

A perfect place for drawing

A perfect place for drawing

Checking her painting

Checking her painting

Checking her painting

On the top, you clearly see the cave houses on the both side of the valley

On the top, you clearly see the cave houses on the both side of the valley

On the top, you clearly see the cave houses on the both side of the valley

Before leaving Lijiashan, don’t forget to have a bite of the yummy noodles made by the host at Yellow River Family.

Any questions, just drop a line.